In this excerpt from the Exposing Motion Picture Film Masterclass, we extend a 15-minute window of twilight into a 40-minute shoot.

(Watch the first 6 minutes of Exposing Motion Picture Film Masterclass for free.)

VIDEO LESSON EXCERPT: HOW TO EXTEND MAGIC HOUR

THE CHALLENGE: THE BLUE SHIFT

When the sun sets, the color temperature of the world shifts dramatically. The warm sun disappears, and you are left with the ambient light of the sky, which skyrockets to a very cold 8800 Kelvin or higher.

If you are shooting on standard daylight film, your footage will look aggressively, unnaturally blue. If you are shooting on tungsten film (which expects orange light), it will look even bluer.

1. THE FILM STOCK STRATEGY (500T)

To combat the dropping light levels, we need speed. I always choose the highest speed stock available: Kodak Vision3 500T (5219).

Why 500T? 

“T” stands for Tungsten (3200K). This stock is designed for indoor artificial light. This seems counterintuitive for an outdoor shoot, but 500T is the most sensitive stock Kodak makes. We need that sensitivity to see into the dark.

2. THE FILTER STACK (THE “WARM-UP”)

Because we are shooting Tungsten film outdoors, we need to correct the color temperature.

The Exposure Formula

With these filters in place, we are losing light. To compensate, I rate my light meter to 160 ISO (overexposing the 500T stock by roughly 2/3 of a stop) at 24 fps. This ensures a thick negative that captures rich color even as the light fades.

3. EXTENDING TIME WITH GEOGRAPHY

Most filmmakers wait for the sun to hit the horizon to start their “magic hour” clock. That gives you 15 minutes, tops.

By using a building to block the sun, we create “artificial dusk” 20 minutes before actual sunset. This simple location choice doubles our shooting window, giving us 40 minutes of usable soft light instead of 20.

4. THE SILVER BULLET (REFLECTORS)

As the light levels drop, a white bounce board becomes useless. It simply doesn’t have the punch to reflect the weak ambient light.

Switch to Silver.

We bring in a Silver Reflector (or shiny board) to catch the remaining blue sky ambiance and redirect it into the talent’s eyes.

5. THE “WEST-FIRST” SHOOTING ORDER

This is the most critical logistical rule of twilight photography. You must shoot your coverage in a specific order to survive the fading light.

Shoot WEST First (Camera facing East).

Why? Because the “source” of your light is the setting sun in the West (behind the camera). The Western sky is the brightest thing in the universe right now.

If you shoot the silhouette first, by the time you turn around to shoot the face, the “softbox” in the Western sky will be gone, and your actor will be in the dark.

THE BOTTOM LINE:

Shooting motion picture film at twilight is all about logistics. By choosing the fast 500T stock, stacking warming filters, blocking the sun early, and shooting West-first, you can squeeze every photon out of the day.

UNLOCK THE FULL MASTERCLASS

Understanding filters is just one piece of the puzzle. To truly shoot motion picture film, you need to master the light meter, understand stock personalities, and know how to manipulate the chemical process itself.

In the Exposing Motion Picture Film Masterclass, Shane Hurlbut, ASC takes you through every step of this journey.

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The post How to Extend “Magic Hour” on Motion Picture Film appeared first on Filmmakers Academy.

Film is making a comeback. From the IMAX spectacle of Oppenheimer to the gritty texture of indie darlings, directors are returning to the medium. But shooting on film is a discipline. It demands that you stop relying on a monitor and start trusting your eye, your tools, and your knowledge.

That is why I partnered with KODAK to create the Exposing Motion Picture Film Masterclass. Drawing from my experience lensing over 23 feature films on 35mm, 16mm, and Super 8 since 1986, this course demystifies the process of exposing film.

Below is an in-depth look at the foundational principles covered in the first chapter of the masterclass. We are going to strip away the digital safety net and look at the science of film stocks, the difference between negative and reversal, and the glass filters required to paint with light.

PART 1: UNDERSTANDING YOUR CANVAS (FILM STOCKS)

Before you can expose a single frame, you must understand the physical medium you are loading into the camera. Unlike a digital sensor, which has a fixed native sensitivity, film allows you to change your “sensor” every time you change a roll.

1. DECODING THE NUMBERS: 35MM VS. 16MM

Kodak organizes their film stocks using a specific numbering system. Understanding this code is the first step in professional film logistics.

2. COLOR NEGATIVE FILM: THE INDUSTRY STANDARD

The vast majority of modern motion pictures are shot on Color Negative film. This film produces an image with inverted colors and tones. When printed or scanned, these colors are reversed to create the final positive image. Color negative is processed using the ECN-2 chemical process.

3. COLOR REVERSAL FILM (VNF): THE “NEWS” AESTHETIC

Before video cameras took over, news broadcasters used Reversal Film, often called Video News Film (VNF). Unlike negative film, reversal film produces a positive image directly on the strip — like a slide projector image.

The Aesthetic Trade-off: Reversal film has significantly less dynamic range (latitude) than negative film. If you miss your exposure, the film is unforgiving. However, this limitation creates a unique, “cranked” aesthetic.

PART 2: ANALOG WHITE BALANCE (THE ART OF GLASS)

On a digital camera, if you walk from a tungsten-lit room (3200K) out into the sun (5600K), you simply dial a knob to change your white balance. In analog filmmaking, your white balance is chemically baked into the film stock. To change it, you must be a craftsman.

THE PROBLEM: SHOOTING TUNGSTEN FILM IN DAYLIGHT

If you load a roll of 500T (Tungsten) because you love the grain structure or need the speed, but you shoot outside in daylight without modification, your image will be overwhelmingly blue. The film expects orange light, but you are feeding it blue daylight.

THE SOLUTION: THE 85 FILTER

To correct this “in-camera,” you must place an 85 Filter in front of the lens.

This is the essence of analog filmmaking: solving problems with physics and glass, not software. 

STOP CHASING THE “LOOK.” MASTER THE SOURCE. 

What we’ve covered here—identifying stocks, understanding ECN-2 vs. Reversal, and filtration — is just the first six minutes of a deep, comprehensive education.

Shooting on film requires you to be both a scientist and an artist. You cannot rely on a waveform monitor or a false-color overlay to save you. You must understand lighting ratios, you must know how to use an incident meter and a spot meter, and you must understand how to manipulate the chemical process (Push and Pull processing) to achieve your vision.

READY TO MASTER THE CRAFT THAT ENDURES?

In the full Exposing Motion Picture Film Masterclass, I take you on location to master high-contrast backlit scenes, harsh side lighting, and the precise techniques for extending “magic hour.” We dive deep into filter factors, the philosophy of the “thick negative,” and how to control contrast using graduated NDs and attenuators.

Forget “fast.” Choose timeless. Master the process.

This masterclass was produced in collaboration with Kodak. 

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